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Welcome to my Long Gun page
CAD Drawings of the Long Gun and its Parts
This is a poor picture. of my Long Gun. That is a 55gal. drum it is sitting on, so you can get a good idea of its size. There is an extension to the barrel that is not attached in this photo. The barrel is 2" ID.With the extent ion the barrel is 11ft. long. The air chamber is 4" X 88" long. It has a 4" female threaded coupler at each end. I did this because I am building a Modular system so I can take the gun apart and change it as I get new ideas to play with. The other things sitting on the barrel are the piston/stopper assembly and the piston "bumper" that goes inside the gun. There are no handles or the valve attached in this picture.
This gun could also be built without using the reducer couplers or regular couplers and bushings in place of the threaded adapters to save on cost and weight. This gun weighs 38lbs. without the barrel extension attached.
Here is a close-up of the piston and bumper. For details on building this piston click here. The o-ring looking thing is the piston bumper. This will keep the piston from slamming into the clean-out cap on the end of the gun and cracking the cap. The piston will be moving with the force of whatever the air psi is inside the air chamber when the gun is fired. The bumper is made from a piece of 3/8 ID fuel line. <from the auto parts store> I put a small piece of vacuum line with a 3/8 OD inside with some glue to connect the ends together.
Here the piston and bumper are inside the gun. The piston is against the barrel and the bumper rest against the ridge at the bottom of the threads in the female adapter.You could use a clean-out here.
This is another piston I designed. It is made from two 3" X 1 1/2" bushings taped together. It will fit in a 4" pipe.
Here is a shot inside the gun. It shows the end of the barrel that the piston seals against. The barrel is supported to stay centered by a 4" X 2" bushing that I cut away all the outside parts that would not fit in the 4" air chamber and removed some of the inside of the bushing so I could slide it <with a tight fit> over the 2" barrel. The little bar in the barrel is a stop to keep things from getting into the sealing area or falling into the air chamber. To attach the "stop" bar I cut a short piece of 2" pipe about 4" long and filed two notches in it so that the bar would fit tightly in the notches and just below the end of the pipe. I then glued the bar in place. I put this into a 2" pressure coupling as far as it would go so that the ridge in the center of the coupler would keep the bar in place if the glue fail. I then put this on the end of the barrel. Note : that the end of the short piece of pipe <which is now the end of the barrel> must be a smooth and square as possible to get a good seal with the piston.
To the left is a before and after picture. of the 2" X 4" bushing that I modified to keep the barrel centered in the air chamber. I got this idea from Richard P. It will give Max airflow around it and will stay in place. On my first gun I used short pieces of rubber heater hose wedged in between the barrel and the inside of the air chamber to keep the barrel centered. They did not always stay in place.
This is the barrel end of the gun.You can see the 4" air chamber, 4" threaded female coupler, 4" male coupler with 4" X 2" bushing in the end of it, and a short amount of the 2" barrel that will get a 2" threaded coupler so I can add to the barrel length or slide a smaller barrel inside.
Info on the Solenoid Valve will go here and how it is attached to the clean out cap. Will go here.
This is the valve I used. Notice the small black lever on the lower left of the valve. With this you can open the valve instantly without any batteries or switches and fire the gun. See the front and back of the box it came in. Cost $9.99
